Shangri-La Kuala Lumpur

Rooms and decor

Picture a big door opening off the chaos of Jalan Sultan Ismail into a high, airy lobby with a faint scent of lemongrass, then walk a little further and you hit a green tropical garden with a pool big enough to look like a Phuket resort set down in the middle of the city — that is Shangri-La Kuala Lumpur, the chain's Malaysian flagship, open since 1985 and one of the hotels KL is proudest of. The long tower runs along the road in the heart of the Golden Triangle, with 662 rooms and suites across 11 types, starting at the 38-square-metre Deluxe and rising to upper-floor suites for anyone who wants to upgrade into the Horizon Club. Even though the last major renovation in 2017 freshened things up a lot, the classic Shangri-La feel — high ceilings, heavy drapes, pretty wood furniture, thick carpet you walk on in silence — is still nicely intact. Repeat guests tend to agree the charm here is the feeling of actually getting a proper stay, more than just a place to spend the night.

Food and amenities

If this hotel has a beating heart, it is Lemon Garden, the legendary KL buffet that locals book out every weekend, serving Malay, Indian, Chinese, Japanese and Western food across every section in a high-ceilinged room that opens onto the tropical garden. Breakfast brings made-to-order omelettes and a barista at your table; weekend dinner adds a seafood zone with lobster and crab still crawling over the ice. Next is Shang Palace, the Cantonese restaurant known for lunchtime dim sum and Peking duck carved at the table. For something more relaxed there is Lemon Garden Sidewalk, a cake-and-coffee spot beside the garden for the afternoon, and the Lobby Lounge for afternoon tea with a live pianist. Through the back doors is the big pool, set in a tropical garden ringed with tall palms until you forget you are standing in the middle of Jalan Sultan Ismail — loungers, cabanas and a pool bar serving smoothies and cocktails. The gym is open 24 hours with full Technogym equipment, and the Himalayan-style Chi Spa runs traditional massage treatments in private rooms quiet enough to hear yourself breathe. The one many call the best value is the Horizon Club, an exclusive floor with a private lounge serving afternoon tea, evening cocktails and a private check-in that skips the lobby queue — worth trying once if the budget stretches.

Location and getting there

The location is right in the heart of the Golden Triangle, on Jalan Sultan Ismail, one of the busiest business streets in the city. It is about a 5-minute walk from the lobby to Bukit Nanas monorail, which runs up to Bukit Bintang or down to KL Sentral. Another 10 minutes on foot reaches Pavilion KL, the city's smartest mall, and about 15 minutes gets you to KLCC and the Petronas Twin Towers; KL Tower is across the road, a short walk up the hill to the entrance. The thing that turns the location into an advantage is the hotel's free shuttle, running to KLCC, Pavilion KL and Starhill all day, so you don't have to call a Grab every time you want to shop or eat. Coming from KLIA, take the KLIA Ekspres to KL Sentral in about 30 minutes, then a taxi of another 10 minutes to the hotel. Put simply: if you want to wake up, shop the malls all day, come back to soak in the pool and finish with dinner at Lemon Garden, this location delivers.

Things to know before booking

Straight talk to help you decide — the most common gripe is the age of the building, open since 1985. The last big renovation in 2017 freshened up the rooms and pool a lot, but some areas, like the long corridors and parts of the lobby, still feel more classic than newer 5-star hotels such as Four Seasons KL or The RuMa. If you are after minimal-modern design, it may not wow you as much as you hoped. Another point some reviews raise is that the hotel is not attached to any mall: getting to Pavilion or Starhill means about a 10-minute walk (KL afternoons are fairly hot and humid) or waiting for the shuttle, which can sometimes run 15 to 20 minutes apart — less convenient if you are used to stepping straight from a hotel into a mall. A few reviews also note the bathroom and work desk in Deluxe rooms lean a little traditional, and that Wi-Fi drops in some rooms, though these are small points that don't spoil the mood.

Our take

Having read through hundreds of real reviews and compared it with the other 5-star chains in Kuala Lumpur, Shangri-La Kuala Lumpur is a hotel that sells the idea of a downtown resort oasis with real conviction — a tropical garden and big pool that look nothing like a city center, the legendary Lemon Garden buffet, a free shuttle that makes the location easier to use, and veteran original Shangri-La staff who remember guests and look after them like family. Rates from $149 a night are very good value next to other 5-star hotels in the same area. If your idea of the trip is waking up to a buffet in a room that opens onto the garden, soaking in a resort-style pool in the afternoon, taking the shuttle to shop at Pavilion in the evening and coming back for cocktails in the Horizon Club lounge, this is the answer that fits best. But if you want full-on modern design or want to step straight into a mall, Four Seasons KL or The RuMa may suit you more. Overall we give it 8.8/10 — best for couples, families and business travelers who want a downtown resort feel with classic Asian service.